Family Member Addition

As I toil away here, screw-driver and allen keys in hand, working Monday to Friday for the first time in my life… I picture this:

and suddenly, the 40 degree heat, the monotony and the strain of an outdoor bicycle-mechanic job (for Brisbane city’s City Cycle bike-share program) doesn’t seem in the least bit arduous.

I’m putting away the pennies and true to the old adage – “A boat is just a hole in the water you throw money into” – tearing up $100 bills with ease and finesse. But doesn’t she look PRETTY?!

She’s had her cute little bottom painted, a brand new blue boot-stripe, her sea-cocks and thru-hulls replaced, a new depth sounder put in, and a whole long list of other fun (just add zero’s) additions or replacements.

She’s a Cape Dory 30ft Cutter (always a favourite of mine) and designed by Carl Alberg. We settled on January 1st – not a bad way to start off the year in my books! Before and since, she’s been in the experienced, nurturing hands of my old friend (and Captain of ‘Ramble’), John, who I am forever indebted to, thanks to his continuous love, support and level-headedness.

I’m spending my days turning them into weeks, work-work-working my way to her, and plan to be state-bound by mid-April. Perhaps no name will suit until i have felt her under a slight press of sail and a following sea, but I’m all open to ideas, if you have any!

For now, I console myself with dreams of letting go the bowlines, sailing away from the safe harbor, and catching the trade winds in my sails…

and at long last, I know where to call Home.

Mum and Me

After a year full of adventures, stories, advice, emails and Skype calls – finally my mother was in town. As in, the same town that I was! For two weeks, we sailed the sea, waded the water and hitchhiked the hills… here’s the proof:

Mum's tile painting - this will be my first boat, yellow with a red spinaker!

coil that line! reef that main! by god that's seamanship!

mum mum mum

The boulders from the boat

On top of the world at Virgin Gorda

Huge boulders at Virgin Gorda, and little Ramble in the background there

Why are we about to jybe? Oh right, you have to push the other way... the other way lil, tiller tiller tiller

A wheel, now that i know how to use

Ahoi captain

The shoes i made from our stearing wheel cover... still holding up!

Ramble my love...

Patty digging the sunset on Norman island

Mike having a webinar in paradise... (I didnt know what that was either)

Patty at Mr Beans Pirate gig at Marina Cay. Don't go for him!

Long Bay beach on Beef Island... and Mum

Ramble and our Yellow Banana tender there in the background. But in the Foreground, is Rubber Ducky, my ULTIMATE boat! Aulburg design and oh so beautiful!

Learning tunes from Charlie

Charlie on the fiddle

A lazy mornin'

Just another perfect beach

Lydia, Charlie's 50 year old 33ft classic fibreglass beauty.

Mum putting the sail away

Another sunset another day

Mum and Charlie on Lydia

ahhhh hammocks!

Life is tough...

Another hammock another day

hitching a ride in an icecream truck with my mum in the front seat!

Hitching a ride in an icecream truck, with mum in the front seat!

A hand made gift from oceans away... thanks so much Rosie!

crank that sheet in...

Finally, an Aussie flag on the boat

Fire Poi at Trellis Bay full moon party

Fire Poi - this guy was incredible!

Dreams of Reality

There's only so many motoring catamarans you can take - a poster i made

Yes - i AM actually here - this is not a postcard!

Ramble is getting a makeover!

This is what we call boat-jail... the starboard locker with all the wires...

Cross that off the list! Woo!

Check it out - i made some shoes out of our old stearing wheel cover! Yay for recycled leather!

Part of the Frambly

“Of course, it’s not the same if you smoke out of curiosity and retreat, than belonging to the joint-smoker family, in which case life becomes bit by bit something flat. Investigators say so”.

No I didn’t lose my mind, or my English skills, but I did burst into a fit of giggles after Ava read this out to me from a (very badly!) translated Spanish newspaper somewhere off the coast of the Canary Islands. And that was only the first fit of the day, there would be at least a dozen more.

Ava is the just-turned 21 year old, Texan, or better put Austinite, who has been taking a year off language studies to sail the seas. She is almost always smiles, except when she’s not, in which case she bounds down the companion way, looks in all the cupboards and proclaims “Everything sucks!”. I give her a hug and we both break into a burst of laughter over how ridiculous this sentiment is. She was the optimistic, carefree Frambly member. We sung sea shanties together, gave each other massages almost every day and seriously chuckled a whole lot. I spent more than 50% of my day in hysterics. I can’t remember the last time I had laughed so much. Our friendship blossomed into a beautiful connection, and we both grew because of it.

Brad is the 36 yr old New York lawyer. He took things pretty seriously, and wouldn’t buy into our L.A.R.Ping pursuits but is a great budding philosopher and many an hour was spent together discussing our views and ethics. I can be known to chew the cud, so to speak, as good as the best of them, so it was nice to have someone else to bounce ideas off, argue and tumble over moral issues with. Brad would cook everything in his famous Tae Kwan Do position – legs apart, firmly planted, knees bent in a squatting position and pivoting at the waist from the sink to the stove. It seemed to work better than whatever I had going on, since one fateful evening my spaghetti sauce ended up over and under just about everything.

John is still John. The solid rock, ever inspiring, ever encouraging. He took every opportunity to congratulate, boost and marvel at all of our qualities. During the course of the sail I came to BELIEVE that I could do a great many more things that I had previously thought. I’d have a dream about some goal or other, mention a few pitfalls, and John would be the first to flatten them all, say “GO FOR IT” and convince me he was right. There were also less cheery moments, when we would have our ‘little talks’ and he would quietly mention things that needed improvement or that he was disappointed in. These times were obviously difficult for John, since he doesn’t like confrontation any more than I do, and hard for me to take too, especially since I have so much respect and admiration for him, but we both understood the importance of communication and struggled through them when the need arose.

We were a team. Every three hours, at a quarter to the hour, someone would come off their watch, gently wake the next person, pop on the kettle for coco and disappear up the stairs again while the other res-erected themselves from an often fitful sleep. We read Patrick O’Brian’s navy novels to each other, told jokes and countless stories. We powered on wind, water and love. From Europe to the America’s we consumed not a drop more than 10 litres of diesel. TEN LITRES! Our drinking water lasted, with plenty to spare, and what energy we used came from a line genorator spinning off our stern.  We obeyed Captains orders by clipping in while on deck, wearing safety gear and listening up when “Teddy Bear” was called. But really, in the end, we were just four friends on a fun adventure. We had great down wind cruising which we zoomed with thanks to the ‘Twizzle Rig’, a Genoa out on each side, held up by whisker poles and suspended in mid air. We had some rough seas and a little rain, but no gales or even any major squalls.

And finally, ghosting into the Virgin Islands at two o’clock in the morning, dark shadows of land all around, a summery lightness in the air – my life finally stopped becoming ‘bit by bit something flat’ and I had gained a whole Frambly of friends.

Bracing ourselves for sleep

Braford at the helm

freshly baked bread!

yes, my hair got a little WILD... it looks like it's about to eat Ava!

We made a log entry after every watch...

clip in, clip in, clip in, don't forget to clip in!

giggling, always giggling

Alive

A pair of turtles floating lazily as we pass, trying to crawl on water. A little lone bird perched on our lifelines, exhausted and thankful for some repose amongst the vast expanse of ocean. A pod of dolphins, more than twenty, all swimming along our bow, crisscrossing over and under each other, their bowed backs breaking the surface sporadically. A flying fish jumping straight into the side of my face then hitting the deck with a thud and splattering about as I try to grab hold of him to throw him back. A pilot whale not 10 meters away… then its dark shadow seen gliding under our hull, resurfacing on the other side with a loud blow. At night in the pitch-blackness, more dolphins, this time trailing bioluminescence, their shape lit up and glowing. A Dorado fish hooked on our line, given a blessing and thanks before transforming into sushi, wrapped in seaweed and nourishing us all. A white, bigger bird with an elegant wingspan and a strange white mousy tail dragging behind. Phosphorescence sparkling on all sides of us, reflecting the starry night. Tunicates, baby jellyfish, floating in every few inches of sea and coming up with our buckets of dishwater. Scores of startled flying fish, springing up and scuttling off in all directions as we pass. No mosquitoes, no ants, no flies or bugs of any kind. An arid liquid desert where only those with intended design can withstand the stark saltiness for any length.

Stem to Stern

After her three square meals of beans and rice, she got into the whiskey. The scuttlebutt she had heard earlier had let the cat out of the bag. He was having an affair. She had thought she’d been at the helm of that relationship… that they had been sailing along smoothly… so the news took the wind out of her sails. Undecided as to whether she should cut her lover some slack or give him the heave ho, she just set to drinking. And drink she did – almost enough to sink a ship. By the tenth tall glass she was by and large, three sheets to the wind. She knew she wasn’t toeing the line, she knew it wasn’t professional, but hoped – and touched wood – that the captain would giver her some leeway, considering the circumstances. He was a pretty first rate guy, and they were on an even keel, more or less, so she let loose. The bottle was drunk to the bitter end, and she sensed she had gone a little over board. On her way back to the cabin, Robin, another crewmember, had to hit the deck as she passed, stumbling around as she was. “Whatever floats your boat” thought Robin, but gave her a wide berth anyway.

The next morning found her between the devil and the deep blue sea. She felt about ready to keel over, her quarters were far from ship shape, and yet the problem had not been confronted. She decided to take a different tack this time – she would speak to him, and hopefully make some headway. Maybe they could give it a clean sweep. If that didn’t work – well, she would either jump ship, or send HIM by the board.

*this is a fictional story, sailing jargon in the english language compressed!*

A clear night…

A clear night. More shooting stars than time would allow me to wish on, falling flakes dancing in the sky. A million remain though, not a square uncovered, and I wonder how there can be any stars left at all. The phosphorous in the churning ocean almost a reflection of above, sparkling as we slice silently through the sea.  The only other illumination, excepting the compass glow, is an occasional red blinking seen in the distance amid the myriads of constellations. Quite apart from them though – unnaturally jarring and obvious. A moving target with none of the lingering magic of the meteors. An epileptic flashing I recognize well, though it’s been several weeks since the last.

I imagine them up there, eating their plastic meals and tuning into their plastic world. Each confined to their numbered spaces, a chosen cage. Cushioned chairs well accustomed to daily turnover, though showing few signs of wear or tear. They must endure this restriction for less than ten hours and yet have already grown restless. Relativity is only human though and perception will dictate the truth. Though I am bound to this boat – to its few meters – for over three weeks, I share their frustration and it is perhaps equaled in intensity. They drive themselves to distraction through a pixilated screen, I from a pixilated sky.  A blanketed sky of diamonds from which, save for that sporadic scarlet signal, shines a natural world beyond understanding. I am humbled by it, feeling magnificently insignificant and I do not envy them their fuel-indulged independence.

Reunited with Ramble

My first day back on “Ramble”, the old 36ft wooden yawl. Ava, Brad and John – aka ‘the crew’ – came to greet me by the ferry docks, though somewhat sleepy and hungover. It was a quiet chilly morning on a lonely island, Minorca, Spain. I was trying to muster up some energy, to be the enthusiastic, optimistic person I strive to be… only on this day, under these clouds, it wouldn’t come. I had left good friends and great loves in Barcelona, and felt as though this was the beginning of the inevitable fall off the edge of the earth. I would laugh but my heart would shrug, I’d smile but without a shine.

Still, I had the space and time to follow these feelings, and it was therapeutic to allow myself the sadness. I was surrounded by beautiful, melancholic sights too. Huge waves crashing against high cliff-faces, lone trees molded by the fierce wind, somber sunsets over restless seas. This was the beginning and the end, new worlds and uncharted adventures… though my heart was lonely, the excitement bubbled just below the surface.

Once we were under way, things lit up. Crawling into my front berth after my night watch, smiling contentedly as I listened to the ocean blow against our little boat. One leg out, or an arm braced against my lee-board to mellow the constant motion, my grin only grew with every wave.

There were rough nights. Evenings where, periodically, a wall of water would wash over you, freezing your knuckles still gripping the wheel. Where the swells were so great we would surf down them at 9knots and getting your gear (foulie overalls, foulie jacket, harness, radio, lifejacket, gloves, beany, gumboots, soaked socks) off downstairs was a slippery balancing act.

And there were calm days. Mornings where the sun rose late or not at all, the water we were gliding through turned into a silky stillness and fog crept up and all around. A lone branch floating in the glassy sea, probably from an African tree, and birds circling our mast. Where I would will the wind to blow, yelling up to a silent sky “come on Mother, I am TRYING to help you out here, give me some bloody breeze!” and turn the motor on muttering.

We sailed on from Minorca, through a near-gale to Majorca… waited for a weather window… then across and down and across and down and across and down, tacking and tack-tack-tacking our way to Gibraltar (though sometimes we were closer to Algeria)… provisioned, laughed at the oh-so-englishness of it all, then set-out across the channel to Morocco. A few days later and we were bound for the Canary Islands. Finally we were out of the Mediterranean, on our way and in the wide open ocean. There was no turning back now.

our beloved banana

miss Ava the salty sailor

really comfy, you just have to work out which way is downhill!

our home

V-Day

In a little over 12 hours, I’ll know my fate. I’ll know if i’ve been liberated… and welcomed to the land of the free.

I have over 30 printed pages explaining my existence. I have spent days staring at a screen and running back and forth from the copy shop. I have senators backing me, doctors, former AP presidents, mothers, lawyers… I’ve got it all. If my hoboism shines through despite this, then at least I’ll know it runs deep.

From here on, it feels out of my hands. I’ve done the best I can. Tomorrow I will stand forth in front of the American Consulate (in shiny business clothes) and be judged. Either way, I’m reminding myself whatever happens is meant to be. My options aren’t so bad. It’s either the Caribbean/Central America, or the freight trains of Southern U.S.A. As always though, I’d like to have it all.

Soon, I’ll sail away on “Ramble”. Whichever land it is i’ll be bound for, I’m sure I could call it homeward. It’s all in the journey right?

Closed

Its a sunny day outside. Ive closed the shutters and drawn the blinds.
I’ve tried to resurect myself today, tried to walk out the door and face it, but tears are flowing and I’m not sure i’d make a good impression.

In a month, on an island close by, Menorca, there will be a boat waiting for me. A beautiful old wooden sailing boat, capable of crossing an ocean, with a crewlist and my name on it. The excitement I can generate from that potential adventure seems so easily thwarted by bureaucracy and practicalities. Leaving my community and secure friendships here, would be half as hard if I werent denied entry to them over there.

I’m looking in the eye of an amazing opportunity, the perfect crossing crew, a dream finally coming true… and arrival on a land minus one bike and one language, without North as a way forward – towards that network I know is waiting for me. The United States of America is still closed for visiting hours.