Christmas With Family

It’s been 6 years since my sister Ella and I had Christmas together with Mum and Peter. When I wasn’t biking or sailing, she was in Spain, so the years have ticked by without a ‘full’ family. We are now all gathered in Sydney, Ella and Daniel’s home, enjoying the traditional celebrations and each others company at last.

Joining us this year for our Danish eve dinner were our friends Jess and Duncan (of “Alliance”) and Jess’ Dad, Jeff. It was a ton of fun, and we are all still recovering!

The bike gang sets out from Newcastle

75kms later, we rest in Wyong, waiting for the train to Sydney

We’re not alcoholics – we’re pirates!

Ella and I in the kitchen

Jess and Duncan join our family!

As does Jeff, Jess’ Dad.

The “Head Monkey Bear” and the youngest Monkey Bear gather around the tree

It’s Danish tradition that lets the youngest take charge of the presents – thankfully, i’m always the youngest!

Ella and Daniel getting excited

Jess gets a Cornish-pirate dvd!

The anticipation…

We love our bikes!

Duncan getting into his new cookbook

Charlie better get brewing!

Mum unwraps her humungous present – a Moroccan tagine!

Charlie and Duncan fight it out at backgammon

Peter and Susan (mum)

Gather round the christmas table..

Ella and I practice the ‘squinge’ (a supposedly ‘seductive’ photo-face Daniel has been teaching us!)

Dad Turns 80!

                                                                     This weekend was my father’s 80th birthday. 80 years! Wow! And he hasn’t wasted a single second of it – as the dozens of friends and family who came to his party could attest to. He’s got the stories to back it up, and we spent a wonderful weekend laughing, eating and drinking with fun people from near and far. Thank you all for making such an effort to join us, I feel privileged to meet or reacquaint with so many interesting, lovely people! Huge thanks to Mum and Peter for their place at Boonah, the perfect setting. And to the whole family for all your input and creativity – what a wonderful celebration!

Mum, Ella and Dani make all the delicious food, as usual!

Lily, Carolyn, Ricky and Charlie get down on the decorations!

 

Air Tropicana flight attendants:

Ella MC’s, then Suzie (eldest daughter) gives a speech: My turn (youngest daughter)… unsuccessfully holding back the tears:

“Just last night, Rosemary was telling the story of the time Dad, landing in Emerald one early morning, had to rouse the sleepy-eyed traffic controller. Upon Dad introducing himself, the young man immediately grabbed his hand and shook it furiously, saying “You’re a legend!”

 That pretty much captures how I feel about you Dad – and I know i’m in good company. Your ability to make anyone feel welcome, to always get a laugh, and to look at life with optimism and adventure. The way you so humbly impart your vast knowledge, and always take interest in helping if you can. Your hard to ruffle nature, and the many many varied crazy and dangerous expeditions you’ve done in your 80 years on earth – That’s what makes you a legend, and the legacy you continue to create in every community, is why I’m so proud to be a Keith Barlow daughter.”

Bob Wylie gives us all the giggles as he pulls out the Vanuatu Custom outfits:

Mum read’s Peter’s wonderful invitation poem and says a few words:

Then Dad gives us the giggles again:

Dad cuts the amazing Airplane cake (courtesy Ella):

And finally, an amazing summer hail storm, seen from the (relative) comfort of the deck:

 

 

 

YOU

The end of a grand adventure is always a special time. Time to take a moment to reflect on the history of the journey, the work, the heartache, the joys, the tears. To remember when it was just a dream in the pipeline, to remember how it came to be reality. It seems a lifetime ago that I was here in Brisbane, dreaming of a boat I had only seen in pictures, and convincing Charlie to help me take her home. Now, two years later, here we are again, in the river-city of Australia amongst friends and family.

In the meantime, we have learnt how to be plumbers, electricians, riggers, mechanics, sailors, navigators, captains… and we didn’t get here on our own. So many people have made this dream a possibility, and it’s you we want to thank. Yes, YOU. For your support, for your funding, for your wisdom and lessons and encouragement. We could never have grown into the people we are today without you. Thank you for helping us achieve this gargantuan goal, and for sticking with us when we really had very little idea or experience. Thank you!

Our Support Team:

First and foremost, is of course, our parents. Mum (Susan Bothmann), Peter Franks, Dad (Keith Barlow), Mom (Pam Alsum), Dad (Charley Brigham). Wow. You guys threw money and love at us when all we had were dreams, and your trust gave us wings. Thanks for taking the time to visit and for helping us achieve so much in that short 9months! Thank you, from the deepest depths of our hearts, for believing in us, and supporting yet another crazy endeavor that kept getting crazier. We’ll stop now for a while, I promise.

Family has always been our rock, and our sisters have always been there to lean on. You guys reminded us what a special adventure this one was, and to keep on truckin’. Thanks! Ella Barlow, Carolyn Barlow, Suzie Norman and Johanna O’Tigham. You ladies rule! Special thanks to Carolyn for making the effort to join in Tonga, and for all the fun we had sailing home to Vila!

There’s one person that single-handedly put Portal in our hands. If not for Mr John Reid, we would probably still be two ragged hitch-hikers, wondering which rope to pull and what the hell a GRIB file was. From the planting of a dream four years ago, to the weather-routing-rescue mid-Pacific, John has never failed to encourage, educate and support us on this mission. He stood firmly as a pillar of support for us newbie sailors, and literally talked us through every step of the way. I would never have even considered this a possibility, if not for his firm encouragement. Thank you for helping me become the sailor and skipper I am!

Our crew deserves a top-of-the-list thanks – Barbara Graf and Lydia Witter. Thank you for putting all your trust in us, for never asking too much, and for always giving your all to this amazing adventure! Thank goodness we had your help!

And to their families: George, Laurie, Werner and Gabriella. For trusting us to sail away with their children, for always lending support, and for taking on the burden of worry so we could have an amazing adventure! Thank you!

There are two people that didn’t just make this trip special, they made it unforgettable. For their friendship, love, support and constant help and hospitality, we could never thank Jess and Duncan of Alliance enough. From the life-saving tows when we were in trouble, to the countless late nights of giggles and good food – we will always be grateful. We love you guys so much!

A big all-round thanks to all the friends and family back home (both in the US and Australia), who sent us words of encouragement and for believing in us. Thanks for keeping in touch, for reading the blog, and for following us on the Tracker. We loved having you along for the journey!

In chronological order:

Jerry Purcell: Our broker in LA, for his rule-bending early on, and the push to get us OUT!

Robert Brown: Our first friend in LA! Thanks for all the buckets of wise advice and never doubting we were going to make this happen.

Mariners Bay Marina: We really owe them thanks, though I doubt they know it! For turning a blind eye to our “sneak-a-board” lifestyle, and having such relaxed marina rules that meant we could use the dock for projects!

Arturo the rigger and Ken of Maritime Communications: For being one of the few voices of reason in California! Honest and knowledgeable advice was hard to come by, so thank you both for being the exception!

Downtown LA Bicycles – Rod and his family: From the beginning you helped make this happen! Thank you for giving Charlie a comfortable and enjoyable work environment, and for always taking such an interest in our journey. Your gifts and support made our life so much easier and safer!

Huckleberry Cafe – For being a fun place to work with great pay and conditions. Thank you for dealing with my frequent stress-migraines and supporting me on this project!

The Ship’s Store – RIP. The last of the Marina Del Rey small business marine shops – you will be missed!

Max and Stefan: We owe you two doggers! Thanks for letting us use your address, and for receiving dozens of bizarre packages of all shapes and sizes – it was a major help!

A big thanks go to Michelle and Ryan, Kevin, Nicole and Wendy, Augustine, Cyprus, Cathy, Jon, Giovani, Travis, Robin and Kevin, Doug and all the other friends that kept us sane while we worked unhealthy hours, pouring everything into this. Thank you for breaking the monotony and cheering us up just when we needed it!

We want to thank the rightful owners and inhabitants of all countries and lands we travelled to – thank you for allowing us to visit your home by sailboat, for letting us eat your fruit and catch your fish. We respect and admire your welcoming attitude and open hearts. Thank you.

Thank you to Laurence, Kai and family of Lilikoi Garden Cafe in Moorea – you guys made our Moorea experience unforgettable, and we just loved meeting your beautiful family. You helped us get through tough bike-theft times, do laundry, and always had a safe haven for us to crawl to! Thanks for the great hikes and the good times!

Thanks to Mike of the Aquarium Cafe in Tonga, for creating such a friendly, useful space for cruisers and always making us feel welcome.

A huge thank you, from the bottom of our hearts, to my Ni-Vanuatu family: Gladys, Samuel, Mothy, Mark, John, James, and Jack. You make Vanuatu HOME for me, and seeing you again was beyond amazing. Thank you for welcoming us so truly and completely, as well as our friends, Jess and Duncan. I’ll see you again soon!

A big thank you to Paul James, for all the help and support while we were in Vila!

A huge and special thanks to the Beeson family – your hospitality and help saw no limits! Thank you for really making life in Vila fun and easy, for the delicious meals, great adventures and for the sailing interest! Cam, we loved having you join us, and we are truly sorry it was such a horrendous trip! May there be another someday to make up for it!

Thanks to Mic Mcgra for opening your home to us, and giving me the pleasure (and comforts) of memory-lane!

Thank you to our family-friends Tess, Bernie and Lachlan, for the delicious old-school dinner at L’Houstalet and the wonderful welcome.

To Malcolm and Jackie from Cornwall, thanks for your help in Tanna!

A big thank you to Esteve in New Caledonia, for all the car-rides, and for making the Blue River national park so easy and fun to explore by bike.

And finally, a thank-you to all the people un-mentioned, for picking us up when hitch-hiking, for giving us help and direction when we were lost, for letting us sit in your cafe for hours using the free internet, and for generally making our lives easier as travellers and sailors. Thank you!

Pacific Cruising Community:

These are the friends that accompanied us across the ocean, and you are the ones that  made this trip something special. Every landfall was made sweeter by your company, and every bottle of Abuelo and Clos was tastier with you to share it! The camaraderie and support that we received from you often pulled us out of sticky situations, and we thank you for all your help along the way! Fair winds and following seas to you all!

Paul and Celeste of The Beguine: Thank you for all your amazing fishing advice, all the gifts (especially the incredible equator-crossing Scotch!) and for believing in the crazy youngsters with the tiny boat!

Jared and Scott of Reisender (and Pixel, their cat!): for being our very first cruising buddies, for always lending a hand where it was needed and for that last roll of duck-tape – it really came in handy!

Jess, Duncan and Jeff of Alliance – because it just doesn’t get any better than you.

Bruce, Catherine, Luka, and Don of Marionette; from delicious dinners to help with boat projects, we miss you and want to thank you for just being great sailors and great friends. Bruce, you are an inspiration to us all.

Henrick and Morton of Night Hawk; For that first ‘Hamburga’ party, and being the charming vikings that you are. We loved being next to you in port!

Toby, Simon and Louie of Warskavi; 3 vikings on a tiny boat – you won our love from the start, and we thank you for being the good friends you are and always up for some fun!

Travis and Joanne of Calico Jack; For your amazing cooking and wonderful hospitality, and for being part of this years crossing crew!

Neville of Compass Rosey; Thank you for that spare solar controller – it was a wonderful back-up!

The whole crew of Llyr; For inspiring us with your unique research-sailing vessel, and for being such a wonderfully open and friendly family!

Mark, Paul, Inaki of Sikim; Oh, you guys! We miss you and can’t wait to see you again some day – Thanks for always filling life with more laughter!

Robin and crew of FlapJack; For the regular radio help and information when entering a new place – thank you for making our lives easier!

Chris from Santa Cruz; Dude! Thanks for joining our circle for a while, and we hope to see you again!

David and family of Suvarow; Thank you for the wind-vane! And for inspiring us with your dedication and cutie-pie family!

Charles and Heather of Chilli Cat; Thank you for helping us get our bikes back in Moorea! It was great to have you as part of our travelling community.

Graham and Dianne of Maunie; For the hospitality and great laughs – and for loving our cat so much!

Beth-Anne and Doug of Sinbad; Thank you for the ‘golden egg’ theory, and for being so open and humble – your boat & tour was the best of the trip!

Tray, Amy and Ryan of Blue Moon; Thanks for the help in Raietea, and for good meals and good chats!

John of Ocean Jewel; Thank you for that great Brisbane chart and the brand-new boat hook! What a life saver!

Karen, Andreas, Esra and Angie of Happy; It was so great to meet you guys! Thanks for the great bonfires and good times!

Rona of Hello World; Thanks for being so bad-ass and inspiring me to single-hand someday! We hope to see you again…

Phil, Connolly and Travis of Sea Monkey; Thanks for the water that night… and for the fun and hijinks that followed, it was great meeting you!

John and Nia of Zeitgeist; Our new friends! Thanks for being cool and inspiring us with… everything!

Harry and Dagmar of Moyo; Thanks for the offered refuge in Tanna, for the fish and the friendship!

Peter and Vanessa of Akimbo; Thank you for the great hospitality, all the wealth of information, the delicious food and all the fun we had in Noumea!

Peter, Peter and Jess of Quest of Signet; Thanks for being there when we were going crazy, and for going crazy too! We loved the bonfires and late nights with you guys.

Mike and Jules of Sirius; Thank you for keeping our spirits up when the weather wasn’t cooperating – for the fun board games and great nights together.

Mathew and Karen of Gallanego; It was great meeting you both, thanks for the all the fun!

Tom of Earl of Tasmania; Thanks for being such a crazy dude, for having an even smaller/older engine than us, and for really cheering us on!

And Finally:

A last-but-certainly-not least final Thank You, to the most valuable crew ever to sail the south-pacific. Mr Gramps, Auto-helm 2000, despite the ups and downs, became our friend, mentor and right-hand-man. Thanks for getting us here Gramps! We did it together!

 

 

 

 

 

Lap Lap and The Family Bond

Lap Lap, a delicious, traditional Ni-Vanuatu meal is more than just coconut milk and banana leaves. As the vines that bind the leaves together, so too does the dish bind families. Commonly eaten during festivities or special occasions, lap-lap consists of yam, taro or manioc, mixed with pressed coconut cream and a selected meat, often sausage or chicken. Ingredients are layered over softened Banana leaves, then closed and bound for a slow bake under pre-heated rocks. It is a long process, and therefore one that involves the whole family community. It’s as much about the journey as the destination, though the taste alone seems worth it.

As a celebration of our time in Vanuatu, and the re-uniting of families, Gladys and Samuel hosted us for a mouth-watering feast and full day of love, friendship and family. We want to thank them so much for such a wonderful bonding experience. Making lap-lap is not only a reminder of my childhood, but also a continuation of my connection to this country and these people.

Here’s the process in photos:

(nb: do not continue on an empty stomach)

 

                

  

                

    

                

At Home in Vanuatu

In a faraway land, surrounded by volcanoes, palm trees and water-life, a child was born. The year was 1987, and her world was an isolated series of islands, their location barely known to the rest of Earth, and each one ripe for exploration. As the years went by, her family, both white and black, would snorkel amongst starfish, fish from trees dangling over lagoons, and sometimes… go sailing. A little boat, full in the belly and with a witch painted at the bow, “Magic Moon”, would carry this little girl, safely in her mothers arms, out to the horizon. The first time she drifted away from land, out, out, out, into the bay and slowly out to sea, was on-board this magic carpet, and as the people, then the trees, then the buildings grew smaller and smaller, her mind was imprinted forever.

Twenty Six years later, an even smaller little boat left the Kingdom of Tonga, bound for Vanuatu. This one was named “Portal” and had traveled across many miles and many nations to finally begin this important journey. On board was the little girl (not so little anymore), her co-captain Charlie (not little at all), her beloved big sister Carolyn, and their cat Pixel (she at least, was quite small).

The day they all set out, began with flat seas, calm winds and pleasant sailing. The forecast looked good for their 10day push past Fiji and onto Vanuatu. But perhaps that never really matters – A first day sail is still a first day sail, and that usually means bad weather. Sure enough, by afternoon it was blowing 35knots from the South and little Portal and her crew were being thrown about. Carolyn, freezing even in her rain-gear, lay sprawled out in the cockpit, vomiting periodically over the side. Charlie stayed down below, clutching a bucket. Pixel snuggled tightly into her corner and tried to forget where she was. Our youngest sailor tried to make food and keep morale up, but mostly that meant making bruises and keeping things right-side up. Into the night they went on, all very thankful for the trusty self-steering gear “Gramps” who kept the small ship on course. By morning the worst was over, and the seas again were calming down.

The journey was to be a tough one though – no sooner had they settled down, that our roaming crew were back to work: Old Gramps, Mr Grumpy, Auto-Helm 2000, had decided enough was enough – he had conked out. Could this be it, could he really be dead? Charlie, the vessels smartest engineer, spent hours trying to breath life back into the old robot, while the others took the helm, but to no avail. Just when they thought it fixed, he would beep erratically and sway wildly off course. It was no use, Gramps was dead. R.I.P.

Even with a crew of Three, hand-steering the rest of the way was a dismal prospect. Thankfully, most of the hard work had already been done on an ingenious self-steering mechanism for Portal, called “Sheet-to-Tiller”. With just a few ropes, some blocks and some bungee chord, our little ship would steer herself!

Well, as with most ingenious ideas, this one took a LOT of finessing, and was never quite perfect. Hourly, her crew would re-adjust this and tweak that, zig-zagging their way towards their destination. Then, for three days the wind played a mean trick, blowing straight out of the SW, forcing our heroes to live at a 45 degree angle as they close-hauled their way forward.

Finally though, after a long Ten days, smelly, salty and exhausted, the crew spotted land.

And imagine what joy was felt, when the little girl aboard Portal, drifted into the bay, closer to the people, the trees, the buildings, closer and closer to her old home: that dream-land full of islands and volcanoes. Imagine her heart beating as she raised the national flag, sister by her side, from her little ship brought from so far away… her national flag, the flag of Vanuatu.

Hand in hand, the two sisters explored their old home. Charlie, now the camera-man, followed close behind. Into their old houses, past familiar streets, cafes and markets, along well-known beaches and into previously explored lagoons. Into the arms of old friends, old family, not seen for years but as familiar as if it were yesterday. They filled their bellies with food they had long dreamed of, and nourished they souls with memories of days gone by.

One day, as they were walking along the water front, our little-girl-sailor stopped dead in her tracks. Tears began to flow as she stood transfixed at the sight in front of her. There, just two meters away and plump as ever, lay her first ever magic-carpet: “Magic Moon”.

Charlie drinking his first Kava and climbing a Paw Paw tree:

Portal Anchored at home at last: 

Mmmm, Pawpaw from Mum’s land:

L’Houstalet, a Vanuatu institution, with delicious pizzas:  

Exploring our old homes; Lily in the ‘Pink House’:                 Carolyn’s friend Tony Tasavi, chief of Njuna Island:

A trip to Erakor Island, an old childhood hangout:

  Bumping into an old friend, Georgie:

Gladys, my surrogate mother:

A swim at Hideaway, another old hangout, and where my parents were married. It’s also home to the only Underwater Post Office!

A tour of Dad’s old Soap Factory, and old friends, all grown up!

Sunset on the waterfront with dorky family:

Vanuatu family and friends onboard Portal:  

Two Weeks In Tonga

Crossing the International Date Line had me stumped. I knew we would lose a day, on our trip from French Polynesia to Tonga, and thought I had it all figured out. We’d arrive on Friday the 17^th, check in and begin preparations for our 3-day anniversary (19th-21^st). So when we found the customs dock deserted and lonely, I was quite confused to discover it was actually Saturday the 17^th. I’d skipped the DATE but not the day of the week, oops.

Quarantined on Portal until clearance on Monday, we took the opportunity to clean up after a long passage. I re-organised the galley, Charlie re-organised the fishing tackle box.

I scrubbed the hull and topsides, getting so cold Charlie had to revive me with tea and a warm blanket. Our anti-foul bottom paint has held up for almost two years now, and I’ve been very impressed, but finally it’s wearing out and cleaning has to happen more often.

The new week began with all the standard check-in procedures, and despite the low-tide and very high-dock, Portal got away unscathed. Business taken care of, we quickly assembled our bikes and began our real anniversary celebrations. First, a big breakfast at the Aquarium Cafe, a lovely spot with a wide open deck and friendly staff.

Then, off we went around the island on our trusty steeds. We didn’t stray too far – most roads were washed-out tracks, but we saw lots of beautiful vistas, cute pigs, teaming mandarin trees and smiling locals.

For dinner we had a huge feast planned – a three course meal! Cheese and hors d’oeuvres to begin, two big steaks prepared on our barbeque served with roasted veggies and macaroons and ice cream for desert.

The following morning we were still recovering from our gorging, so packed a light lunch and set off on our rowing expedition. Despite the light drizzle, we had a wonderful day in ‘Luck-key’, exploring distant bays and beaches, even spotting a huge whale!

Carolyn, my sister, was joining us in Tonga for the sail to Vanuatu, so we biked our hearts out through the rain to meet her at the airport that afternoon. The flight was delayed, but eventually we were re-united and the endless chit-chat began. Soon our old-friends Jess and Duncan (of Alliance) sailed into town too, and many more nights were spent as one big happy family, eating and drinking around campfires on the beach.

Vava’u, the group of islands in the north of Tonga where most boats pass through, is truly a sailors paradise. Little islands scattered around, all close enough to each other to protect from the winds and swell, means hundreds of perfect anchorages and flat seas to sail through. Alliance and Portal ‘raced’ each other from spot to spot, taking photos as the other cruised by.

Amazing sunsets, deep and colourful caves, coral gardens… it all had to come to an end eventually, and after almost two weeks in Tonga, Portal set sail for Vanuatu. The next landfall would be a much anticipated one, and who better to arrive with, than my darling sister Carolyn, Vanuatu local for 30years?

               

     

Visitors amongst the chaos…

We were so lucky to have so many guests visit us these last few months. Charlie’s mum, Pam, came for a visit late last year and partook in crazy engine-less fog-sailing, my sister Suzie came all the way from New Zealand for a week of Portal lazing, our dear friend Andy came for a night and stayed for a month (but we wish he’d stayed longer!), Mum and Peter arrived early February with energy and enthusiasm to carry our projects forward, Allie, an old friend, stopped by for a night, Charlie’s bike buddy Chris helped out for a week, and finally my Dad, by the end of February, with dehydrating expertise and all-round adventurers wisdom. Everyone helped a lot, all in their own way, and it was great to have the company!

Ally visits our little home

Mum, Charlie and I trying to stay warm!

So easy to please… asleep amongst the chaos

Dad Dehydrates!

Crazy Chris helps us re-wire

To The Bay and Back

Charlie and I recently took a little trip up to San Francisco to see his mum Pam, who was in town for a conference. A perfectly timed rideshare there and back, a cosy stay in a familiar hostel, and the warmest of reunions with two old friends – what fun!

An anecdote to exemplify the serendipity of the trip:
Charlie, Pam and I have spent the day exploring the city by rented bicycle (cute locally designed “Public” bikes) and decide it’s time for a refreshment in old hippie town – Haight&Ashbury. I use the opportunity to call my dear friend Kate, who I’m hoping to catch up with later on. As she answers her phone, I watch a woman, across the road with her back turned to me, receive a call – and it’s not long before we both realise we are standing right next to each other. There are approximately 812,000 people who live in San Francisco. Coincidence that the one I know is walking the same block as I am, at the very same moment? Or a paranormal sisterhood connection?

Three Years

June 28th… no, actually – June 29th – marks a special day for me …  Three years ‘on the road’ (an anti-climactic cancelled flight to Thailand delayed me a day). Or at least, Three years since Australia, since Family, since Bubble-o-bills, Milo, and Three Monkeys chai. A few special occasions of relief – Peter once, Mum twice, Dad in San Fran and Sister a whole fabulous 3 months in Barcelona. While floating on Ramble I even got a package full of Milo tins for my birthday. But special treats aside, I’m now into my fourth year away.

Mum and Lil in the Caribbean

Family in San Francisco

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Away from what? I’ve built myself a Home in many places since, I’ve found new Friends, new Communities. I’ve relaxed on beautiful beaches, been to great gigs and slept on many a couch. But… … none of them have been Byron beach, none of them have been Mr Laneous at the Shire with the crew, and none of them have been Mum and Peter’s plush white sofa. I’m slowly losing my accent, gradually warming to the cold, and I’m even saying things like “Sofa”! I’ve learnt to spell like an American, speak like the French and eat like the Dutch.

I didn’t know what I was looking for, when I left in 2008. I didn’t know I’d find True Love,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nomad Bases,

and Bicycle Touring.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I sure as hell couldn’t have guessed I’d be living in a small city in the Mid West, building a northern hemisphere Home. But it’s a good thing I did, since that’s exactly why I left – to explore, to learn, to grow. Now, I have new words, new (old) boots, and a Whole New Family.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But I still dream of mangoes by the kilo, signs that say “Watch for Kangaroos” and especially, I dream of waking up on that plush white Couch, or camping amongst Bottle Trees on Dad’s farm “DeHavilland”.

If I were ever to make plans, I would say: I plan on this being my last year away. I plan on catching the sailing season in February, and riding the trade winds all the way HOME. I plan on Kilometers and Capsicums and 40 degrees Celsius. But plans are for fools. I’ll just wait and see.

Coming Full Circle

I have a vivid memory of the first time I saw the San Juan Islands. In a park, somewhere on the Washington Coast I took photos of a magic sunset, beams of light pointing down to the spattered land masses while my good friend Sarah stood close, both us smiling, calmy content.

When I pedaled down to Washington Park in Anarcortes, three years later on the final day of my bike tour – it was with a leaping heart that I realised: I recognised where I was.

Complex patterns on a map are usually the only reference I have for my surroundings… If I’m familiarising myself with the area, it’s generally on the way out of town. In the Carribean I was comforted by well-known trees and plantlife… now I was soothed by seeing old photos come to life. The pier we dangled our legs from still stood, sturdy as ever, and it may well have been the same fisherman tying up at the dock after another long day.

This syncronicity marked the beginning of a beautiful period. Old threads are pulling together – old friends, old memories, clearing through the cobwebs. My welcome into Vancouver was from a familiar face – James, the first stranger I met on my coast-to-coast, way back in Nyack, New York. Originally from Canada and visiting for the week, he came to escort me off the ferry and, through his brother organised amazing accomodation for my stay in the city. A beginning and an end.

Then I got my oldest friend ever, Ange, like a lung full of fresh air. Her familiar sneezes, her tales about Australia… the tim-tams in her backpack – all such comforting delights! The same city brought me Leon too, the Irishman I cycled with through Ontario who had also just arrived by bike. We ate ice-cream and giggled over coffee, able to pick up where we left off. It was rejuvenating to take a break from the usual 20 questions, all the getting-to-know you fluff.

If ever there was a story that needed an ending, it was Guisepi’s – (freeteaparty.org). We met during my last trip to the States, and frolicked together up and down the coast, falling in love along the way. To credit just one person for igniting my wanderlust would be too simple and too difficult – but there’s no denying Guisepi is partly responsible. He sparked my love of freight trains, he dumpstered my first bin-meal and just generally set an example for low-cost, high-adventure, freedom. I flew home, that time, with a broken heart and a longing to return… it took three years and a lot of other journeys – but finally I made it back.

So hugging him again, after only loose letter and email contact, felt as complete a circle as any. We spent a long time just looking at eachother – waiting for the surreal to become reality. Then it was a full week of endless chatter, sharing all that we have learnt in the absence and inspiring eachother once more. We wrote letters by the lake and rode our bikes over the hills… we made tea every hour, tried Tibetan and Chinese brews and read stories from our books (his on tea, mine on bikes) until the night came to a close.

More serendipity and I found myself a ride to Eugene with Mariah, a Madisonian and someone I felt I knew already. With a reloaded bike I managed 5 days of blissful pedaling down the coast, across the Oregon/California border… until time ran out and I went back to thumbing it.

My Dad and Niece were arriving to San Francisco airport at 10 o’clock Saturday morning. Straight off the highway, I stumbled to the arrivals terminal at 10.20. Dads suspenders, flannel shirt and beat up suitcase were easy to spot and tears came as I hugged him again after almost three years. My sister and her partner Dani flew in from Barcelona later that night, and for the first time in a long time, I went to sleep with family under the same roof.

Burning Man 07, Guisepi and I meet again

Old-school – Burning May 2007

Guisepi my long lost friend 🙂

I could be writing to YOU

We got a little carried away 🙂

SWEETEST stamp set EVER

Letter writing day by the lake! So fun, and the sun is out for my journey here!

Hand blending Po Cha, yummy salted creamy buttery Tibetan tea!

Tea makes the world go round!

Guisepi aka the tea man

Owen in the ‘always on tour’ kombi. We met 4 yrs ago at Burning Man…

Ange and her friend Colin, who I met 2 yrs ago in London

Ange sorting burning man costumes!

My route maps layed out 🙂 wooo that was a long ride!