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Posts Tagged ‘coast to coast’

I have a vivid memory of the first time I saw the San Juan Islands. In a park, somewhere on the Washington Coast I took photos of a magic sunset, beams of light pointing down to the spattered land masses while my good friend Sarah stood close, both us smiling, calmy content.

When I pedaled down to Washington Park in Anarcortes, three years later on the final day of my bike tour – it was with a leaping heart that I realised: I recognised where I was.

Complex patterns on a map are usually the only reference I have for my surroundings… If I’m familiarising myself with the area, it’s generally on the way out of town. In the Carribean I was comforted by well-known trees and plantlife… now I was soothed by seeing old photos come to life. The pier we dangled our legs from still stood, sturdy as ever, and it may well have been the same fisherman tying up at the dock after another long day.

This syncronicity marked the beginning of a beautiful period. Old threads are pulling together – old friends, old memories, clearing through the cobwebs. My welcome into Vancouver was from a familiar face – James, the first stranger I met on my coast-to-coast, way back in Nyack, New York. Originally from Canada and visiting for the week, he came to escort me off the ferry and, through his brother organised amazing accomodation for my stay in the city. A beginning and an end.

Then I got my oldest friend ever, Ange, like a lung full of fresh air. Her familiar sneezes, her tales about Australia… the tim-tams in her backpack – all such comforting delights! The same city brought me Leon too, the Irishman I cycled with through Ontario who had also just arrived by bike. We ate ice-cream and giggled over coffee, able to pick up where we left off. It was rejuvenating to take a break from the usual 20 questions, all the getting-to-know you fluff.

If ever there was a story that needed an ending, it was Guisepi’s – (freeteaparty.org). We met during my last trip to the States, and frolicked together up and down the coast, falling in love along the way. To credit just one person for igniting my wanderlust would be too simple and too difficult – but there’s no denying Guisepi is partly responsible. He sparked my love of freight trains, he dumpstered my first bin-meal and just generally set an example for low-cost, high-adventure, freedom. I flew home, that time, with a broken heart and a longing to return… it took three years and a lot of other journeys – but finally I made it back.

So hugging him again, after only loose letter and email contact, felt as complete a circle as any. We spent a long time just looking at eachother – waiting for the surreal to become reality. Then it was a full week of endless chatter, sharing all that we have learnt in the absence and inspiring eachother once more. We wrote letters by the lake and rode our bikes over the hills… we made tea every hour, tried Tibetan and Chinese brews and read stories from our books (his on tea, mine on bikes) until the night came to a close.

More serendipity and I found myself a ride to Eugene with Mariah, a Madisonian and someone I felt I knew already. With a reloaded bike I managed 5 days of blissful pedaling down the coast, across the Oregon/California border… until time ran out and I went back to thumbing it.

My Dad and Niece were arriving to San Francisco airport at 10 o’clock Saturday morning. Straight off the highway, I stumbled to the arrivals terminal at 10.20. Dads suspenders, flannel shirt and beat up suitcase were easy to spot and tears came as I hugged him again after almost three years. My sister and her partner Dani flew in from Barcelona later that night, and for the first time in a long time, I went to sleep with family under the same roof.

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This is a long list. Let it stand as an answer to the question I’m so often asked: “Did you run into any trouble?” The road will always provide, and people always seem to be there when you need them most. Thank you so so much, from the core of my being, for all of your love, help, and selflessness – I couldn’t have cycled a continent without you.

For their hospitality, a vital ingredient:

  • Recycle-a-Bicycle – Dan and Patrick – for having Juno and making her into the best bike she could be!
  • Brad in NYC for a comfy couch
  • James in Nyack, for a warm shower when it was truly needed, and an even warmer welcome in Vancouver.
  • Albany Abe and his vegan baking housemate Ashley
  • Chris and Emma in Ithaca for taking me in off the street and for all the Bike/Madison geeking.
  • Marvin in Ithaca for a delicious meal and a happy roof
  • Joe in Ithaca for the vegan carrot cake!
  • To all at Plankton in Buffalo for showing me the beauty of a depressed city.
  • Steve in Niagara
  • Ruben and family in Hamilton
  • All at the S.H.A.H for just existing so awesomely
  • Jackie and Tom in Ontario for giving 2 strangers everything they could need, and for hunting with a bow and arrow!
  • Troy, Dayna and Porter in Sarnia.
  • Handsome Mike and Pickleball Sally for restoring faith in Michigan
  • Scott in Grand Rapids for the beer, the laughs, the couch
  • Nathaniel and Sean in Milwaukee
  • Doug in Chicago for a last minute couch and a long lasting story
  • Pam, for more than I could say. For the first home in a long time, for the mothering and the friendship
  • Johanna and Raven for all the knowledge and lightness
  • Charley III for loving me already and for the photography inspiration
  • Jim and Maxine for the house, the interview, the garden
  • Megan in Winona
  • Everyone at the Crockhouse, especially Will and Alicia for so much space to recuperate, and for all the laughs.
  • To the family on the Missippi who took us in – I lost Luke’s address and feel terrible! Please send it to me again!?
  • Gerardo in Fargo for taking us in at the last minute and being super chill
  • Kate and Lisa in Minot
  • Tracey and Donovan in Poplar for proving there are good people even in “StabCity”
  • The two hikers who gave us their camping spot in Glacier
  • Tyson in Bonner’s Ferry for the lawn
  • Dollores and Jack Fountain in Locke for being grandparents for a night and all the lost stories
  • The Bicycle Camping Barn for existing and the couple I interviewed there for their energy (please contact me!)
  • To Beth, Guisepi’s mother, for being the end I so needed, for the great conversations and delicious meals.

For the Company and Love:

  • Jon in Albany for being my first bad-ass bike company
  • Jon Watts the Quaker for inspiring in so many different ways, for the love, the bikes, the faith
  • Leon for being the best Irishman ever, and providing motivation to pedal on - then, now, always.
  • Lalo and Emily in Toronto for living and breathing wanderlust
  • The Madison Bicycle Caravan who I met on the bike path for spreading such joy
  • Alan for picking mulberries and for a day’s company
  • Paul for all the High-line Bicycle Gang laughs and staying true to his dreams
  • Stephanie for being another solo rider with zest, and humbly living dreams
  • Oak for inspiring and pushing me when I most needed it, and for being the damn coolest bike brother ever. Oh and for the morning wake up songs.
  • Kristy- my moldy sweat back sister – for just being so fucking awesome, for riding her bike and pushing herself
  • Matt for the laughs and the best bike gang ever
  • Reinhard for being so well-rounded, sensible and silly
  • Christian and Caleb for sharing stories and creating that special day in the park
  • The 3 dutch guys, Han, Hans and Robert for living their 30yr old dream and for the ice-cream!

For help on the Road:

  • The lovely co-op worker in Milwaukee who bought me free food, just because
  • Day, for her welcoming postcard and unwavering love and concern
  • Derek and Machinery Row for the bike work and free stuff
  • John Statz for the incredible music
  • Tim in Wisconsin who rescued me when I needed to be rescued
  • Noel, for riding a long way and for the honest chat
  • The three cyclists in West Salem for the pizza and reminding me to follow my heart, not my ego
  • Josh Ritter and Management for the free ticket and amazing show!
  • Jay in Devil’s Lake for the swim and best buffet meal ever
  • All at the Fargo Bike Co-op for their admirable energy

For Lightfoot:

  • To Amanda in NYC for encouragment and documentation
  • Emma for writing and supporting
  • Dan for the “Sketch” box and actively participating
  • Angel for instantly dropping and writing a letter – spontaneous instant participation!
  • George, who wrote just to write, and brightened my mailbox
  • John and Mother Fools Coffee House for such energetic support and the box space
  • The Crockhouse for the box and being in on the project
  • All those lovelies who wrote/shared/delivered – thanks for the ACTION – it’s the only way to change the world!

And finally – special heartfelt thanks to my steadfast support crew, who’s thought and words echo through every mile, and who will always allow me to be myself, be strong and to be true:

  • Charlie
  • Mum
  • Ella
  • Ange
  • Rosie

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Juno’s kickstand rests in the sand, her dusty handlebars (once pink) grinning to the setting sun. My musky shoes (once pink) rest next to her, socks strewn near by.  I take a deep breath, dive, swim, break the surface. My skin is salty sweat, my tears are salty droplets, and this water, this sweet water, is salty too. Im back in the Pacific.

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bah! I can’t get googlemaps to do this all in one shot, it keeps telling me I have ‘too many destinations’. Ah well, here it is broken up! Updated every few days.

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