Charlie II, Egypt II

It took me a little time. When I first got to Alexandria, Charlie was lying in his hospital bed, blue gown and big beard, his “leg” closer to a red wood: swollen, hard and purple. His face and fingers were pale, so pale. We hugged, after almost a year, and I knew why I had come. Suddenly, I wasn’t there as a lover, I was family. I couldn’t tell if that was more, less, or just different.

He had lost a lot of blood during surgery. To get to his broken bones, they sliced through layer after layer of thigh muscle – no easy task on a touring cyclist – and in doing so, slowly sapped the juice from his body. A normal Hemoglobin level ranges between 13 and 18. Charlies was down to 5. His A negative type is apparently rare in Egypt and finding quarts of blood to pump back into him required mobilizing both the medical and couchsurfing community – networking was key to his survival.

The critical situation came to a climax one night, when finally blood was acquired. Due to his severe anemia, he had a pounding headache and roaring fever. Transfusions are likely to increase body temperature further, so for him to get the fluid he so needed, we first had to cool him down.

Blankets off, air conditioner up, a bucket of ice-water by his bed and cold compresses over any exposed skin. Soak, squeeze, lay over his arm. Soak, squeeze, other arm. Soak, squeeze, leg, forehead, chest, stomach. By the time I returned to the first compress, to re-soak it in the frigid water – it was burning hot. Five hours of this. Finally, after five hours, he could receive the blood. We turned a corner, summited a slope.

Another week went by though (and many more transfusions) before Charlie was discharged. I spent the nights curled up between two chairs in his room, and the days looking for an appropriate apartment for his recovery. Sometimes I could even snuggle up on his bed with him for a few minutes, steal a kiss when the door was closed and feel almost like a lover again.

Once I found us a place, (and a landlord that was convinced we were married – another one I tried, wasn’t), we moved into our new home. Charlies mum, Pam, was arriving in two weeks, so it was a 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom affair, with a beautiful balcony overlooking Egyptian chaos. It had been a very long time since either of us had a place we could call our own, and certainly the first we had had together, so although Charlie was still suffering, and barely able to limp along on crutches, it was an exciting time. At last, we could be ourselves, share our secrets, be alone.

We grew closer through the ups and downs and once Pam arrived, our little family was formed. She flew in and soon began filling our space with love, artwork and amazing aromas. Both Charlie and I needed a mum by this point, and Pam, with her gentle, assured and practical manner, provided us all the love we wished for.
Capers, an old friend of Charlies came to visit too, and I felt relief in having other carers share the load.

Six weeks came and went, and finally it was time for me to return. When I left California, I had dropped everything – left unfinished stories, friends, stuff… and of course, Juno… so I was actually really looking forward to getting back.
By now though, Charlie and I had rekindled that passion and light we’d shared a year earlier, and it was burning brighter than ever. His brown eyes made my heart leap, his thoughts, his ideas, his ways of being, looped into mine, jumped under my skin, wove through my core and rested, sparkling, deep inside my soul. It took a little time, but we were in love again.

Mostafa, our amazing friend and helper

Where we spent most of our time. This is on my last night.

Alexandria bridge at night

A scarab sentiment Charlie buried to come back for in a year, when the tour begins again.

Remember that spot!

Such a little thing…

Charlie re-enacting how it all went. This is where he fell.

There’s no before, but this is the after.

Charlie and Ibrahim, another great friend.

Ahmed and Ibrahim, chillin in his little beach chalet.

Crutches on the beach work ok :)

Ahhh sunshine and water and lovers. perfecto.

Finally im going for a swim in the Med!

At Alexandria Library.

Habibah, our ‘building keeper’s daughter

So cute! She was totally my closest friend for 6 weeks!

Chillin on the couch with a sweet Madison Bike t-shirt Pam brought over for me!

We adopted a kitty cat for a few days.

Some kitchy cups i picked up for the house… I knew there would be ups and downs…

The view looking down from our kitchen. Urghm.

Alexandria library, a place to rest and inspire.

Pam, Charlie’s mum.

Alexandria is full of beautiful colours

Inside the Library. So beautiful!

A book seat! love it!

Some art work Charlie and I made together. His journey is on the right, mine on the left, and the middle is our meeting point.

Capers and I in our Hijabs

Collage collage art art art

Brushing out my dreads… ouch!

Capers by the beach

Mmmm sunshine

The family out for a walk

Huge mangoes, huge everything!!

Market in the street

A vehicle meets it’s death

Tall man in the trees

They don’t take such good care of the two-wheeled beauties around these parts…

Outside our apartment

Turban tying sillyness

Capers

Call to prayer, 5 times a day. Loud.

Most Alex. buildings look something like this.

On the walk to the supermarket

Our living room.

He can still make great bread!

Mum and Son re-united

Every DAY 5-6 people get hit on the Cornish, the highway running through town.

Along the shore

Selling tea

You have to pay to use the beach… but it keeps them clean(er)

Bike shop and mechanic a block from the house.

Hookah on the street

View from our window

Capers and I chillin on the beach and playing with kitty cats

We didn’t move from here much :)

Apparently just 30 years ago, this was all empty sand fields

Mostafa driving me to one of the many places he drove me to!

Citadel in Alexandria

Down to the sea for a cup of tea

To watch the sunset

Sipping tea on his first ‘outing’… by the beach

Our sweet balcony. Just don’t mind the falling rocks and dust from people above building a new level or dusting their carpets

Our room… fancy fancy

before oouch

after uuuoooof

Being a good sport

5 hours of cold compresses

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